Orange rust spots on older leaves - Pics

brettweir

brettweir

New Member
Hey guys, I'm doing my second CFL grow and already I'm experiencing weird stuff with my one plant. I'm growing Joey Weed's White Russian and what started was the older leaves began getting these orange, almost rust-like spots on them. The seedling was transplanted into this soil about 2 1/2 weeks ago. I started giving it 1/2 doses of General Hydro's Flora Series nutes about a week ago.

The pH in the soil is about 6.8 or 6.9, there's plenty of drainage, and the plant seems to be growing fine on its own. The old leaves are the ones that are showing the most rust but new leaves that grow out however also get this orange rust crap on the tips after about 2 days.

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Any ideas? I'm suspecting either overwatering or rust fungus. I hope it's not the latter..
 
rust explained.

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rust, how many of you have had this and been beaten by it? lots i bet!!!
first, rust is a fungi. it is opportunist. it preys on unwell plants. if something is a miss, rust is a sign. rust has been identified to have 7,000 species. it attacks crops of every description. but we're only interested in one variety arn't we?
if rust is present early in a grow, you have problems as it's an indicator something in your room is a miss. usually ventilation. go through your system and double check things are in place and working properly.
rust is an air borne fungi. if given the opportunity, it WILL take hold. it usually does during flower as this is when the plants immune system is at its weakest as its energies are concentrating on re-production, not survival.
depending on what part of the grow you get it, you can cure/minimize it with either chemical or natural remedies.
it enters the leaf via the stomata and then it's off and running.
fungacides used are generally copper based and include; thriram, manzecob, maneb or zineb at 10 day intervills.
organic;
baking soda, 1 tea spoon/ quart of water. spray on.
copper sulphate, read lables.
fungacidal soap sprays;
garlic sprays, 1/2 cup minced garlic, 1 quart of water. let sit 24hrs, strain, spray.
sulphur, one of the best natural sprays. it is low in toxicity.
micro kill, a citric based killer. i use this with great success
 
Look at how dark and leathery the leaves are guys. They don't have mag or nitrogen deficiency. What part of the plant is it on? Top? Bottom? Middle? That is very important to know.... you say older leaves so I am guessing lower down. It's probably nutrient lockout of some kind as mentioned before. Probably from giving them too much nitrogen.

Bare minimum, flush the soil and check pH. Should be from 6.2-7
 
i got it on the middle of my plant on the fan leaf its only on one leaf now but i see a little starting to form on another fan leaf
 
weedmang said:
i got it on the middle of my plant on the fan leaf its only on one leaf now but i see a little starting to form on another fan leaf
Click to expand...

pics?

Also follow the advice from the post aboce yours, Flush and verify pH is correct. What have you been feeding and how much for the last 3 weeks?
 
Classic problem. Hard to diagnose. I've had the same problem for five months now. I'm harvesting today, and things look pretty good.

I'd love to have an idea what the problem is. I know with me, it's not PH of the soil or water. It's also not a nute lockout.

I'll agree with Racefan that it might be mold. That's the last thing I troubleshooted and so I sprayed. Didn't get better, but it didn't get worse.
 
Racefan said:
rust explained.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

rust, how many of you have had this and been beaten by it? lots i bet!!!
first, rust is a fungi. it is opportunist. it preys on unwell plants. if something is a miss, rust is a sign. rust has been identified to have 7,000 species. it attacks crops of every description. but we're only interested in one variety arn't we?
if rust is present early in a grow, you have problems as it's an indicator something in your room is a miss. usually ventilation. go through your system and double check things are in place and working properly.
rust is an air borne fungi. if given the opportunity, it WILL take hold. it usually does during flower as this is when the plants immune system is at its weakest as its energies are concentrating on re-production, not survival.
depending on what part of the grow you get it, you can cure/minimize it with either chemical or natural remedies.
it enters the leaf via the stomata and then it's off and running.
fungacides used are generally copper based and include; thriram, manzecob, maneb or zineb at 10 day intervills.
organic;
baking soda, 1 tea spoon/ quart of water. spray on.
copper sulphate, read lables.
fungacidal soap sprays;
garlic sprays, 1/2 cup minced garlic, 1 quart of water. let sit 24hrs, strain, spray.
sulphur, one of the best natural sprays. it is low in toxicity.
micro kill, a citric based killer. i use this with great success
Click to expand...

This was so good I copied it to a text file on my desktop.:bravo:
 
I'm not sure if it applies to you, but you can get this type of damage from smoking cigarettes around your plants as well. While the carbon dioxide might be good for the plant, the tar and nicotine clog up the pores in the leaves limiting the amount of gas they can take in and expel. If you smoke near the plants, stop. It might solve your problem.
 
Racefan is 100% spot on. "Rust" is a fungi that presents itself as a nute lock out or nute burn problem, but it's actually a ventilation problem. The air in your grow space is not being replaced well and efficiently enough. This is usually a situation that involves inadequate exhaust, over abundant intake, and high humidity. Stagnant air and high humidity. Insects love this, plants do not.
 
McBudz said:
pics?

Also follow the advice from the post aboce yours, Flush and verify pH is correct. What have you been feeding and how much for the last 3 weeks?
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Busta22 said:
I have the exact same problems hope some people can come up with some soultions, the flushing help, better signs in the foliage 3 days after flush
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Stormycirca65 said:
Racefan is 100% spot on. "Rust" is a fungi that presents itself as a nute lock out or nute burn problem, but it's actually a ventilation problem. The air in your grow space is not being replaced well and efficiently enough. This is usually a situation that involves inadequate exhaust, over abundant intake, and high humidity. Stagnant air and high humidity. Insects love this, plants do not.
Click to expand...

Unless the humidity is high/very high I doubt its rust. If it is rust mold you can rub your hand on it and you will have rust on your fingers. If those things happen then it is rust mold.

Otherwise it is a nute/PH/transplant issue. I almost always get some of this when I transplant using FFOF soil. FFOF can be HOT and I always flush a couple times after transplant to limit this discoloration. Also runoff PH is usually low initially after transplant for me. Hot soil... A few roots get burned and these spots pop up.

Verify PH, flush and 1/2 strength nutes.

If its rust mold follow the advice of others. I have never had it with RH of 40% to 60% with good circulation in my grow.
 
Scarfinger68 said:
I almost always get some of this when I transplant using FFOF soil.
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting that. I noticed an orange spot on one leaf, began googling. Everything I found pointed to rust fungus. But, your post caused me to think about how I had transplanted that plant a day or two earlier. And, I made a mistake with the transplant water, adding a bit too much nutrient.

This is my second grow and I'm glad this happened. One more thing to learn about. And, I just learned my transplant water recipe is pretty close to where it should be. :)
 
I'm having the same issues using FFOF. My runoff was low as well, in the 4s and it freaked me out, but I think they're growing into it because even though they still have some occasional burns they're doing good. Also, straight from Fox Farms (Because I was freaking out with really low PH's and VERY slow growth, so I called them), the best way the check the PH of any soil is to do it by mixing a slurry, doing it twice and then average. Do it the first time in a solo cup using 5 parts 7.0 neutral water to one part soil. The second time using equal parts soil and water.
 
In my experience if you see this kind of rust it's usually nutrient burn. Here's how that goes, it's not a particular overheating or massive deficiency it's more about adding just more nutrients in then you actually need, the light activates photosynthesis and the leaves start to use them up heavily but they overload and start to build up inside the plant not being able to use as much as you have in there makes them wither up. Best way I've found to rid yourself of this is first do a flush, preferably just long enough to get the remaining nutes out. You can usually tell because your plant will start to droop like it's becoming powerless if you do this for too long, before that happens put in exactly half of the nutes you used to have, when you see the change in your plant pay attention to how it's reacting, very rarely do you nail this on the head. So if you see it stop rusting but start to slow there are too few nutes and now you want to put slightly more in. Calibrate it, that's the key to having rustless leaves. The reason why no one can give you a definitive reason is because the calibration is based on a lot of factors, how powerful is your light? How much ventilation is in the area? How much does the heat fluctuate between light cycles. Every factor has to be calibrated to the environment you're growing in. I had a friend who tried to grow in a 4x4 with 1000w HPS bulb with no ventilation and then wondered why all his plants withered up. It might seem like its obvious but the smallest things can really mess up your grow.
 
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