DutchDude
Well-Known Member
Icemud inspired me to build my own SCROG screen, and since I thought that it could serve a dual purpose as a drying screen, I put two of them together on the cheap - very cheap. . .
- 1 roll (24"x10') Chicken wire (2" holes) from Lowes: $3.79
- 5 pieces of 1"x2"x96" fir @ $0.89: $4.45
Total: $8.24
Other things that I used, but didn't have to pay for are:
- Little bit of wood glue
- Some brads for my finish nailer (you could use nails or screws, but then you will have to pre-drill)
- Some staples
Cut four of the 96" piece of wood in three pieces: 42", 30" and 24" (no waste). The last one, I cut four pieces of 12", but you can cut them any length that you want. The 12" pieces are the legs of the top screen, so it depends on how high you want them.
Now create a rectangular frame of 42" x 32" (shorter pieces inside the longer pieces). Put some glue on the touching sides, then put in some brads (or screws/nails).
Frame one complete:
Frame two can loosely stand on top of frame two:
Now it is time for the chicken wire. Roll the chicken wire over a flat surface, and stretch it a little wider then the current 24", not too much, just give it a tug.
Place it on top of the screen. You will want to staple it first along the 32" side of the wooden frame (24" stretched part of the screen). Place the staple over the twisted piece of the wire, then after you cut it later, you can fold it over:
After you attach the 32" side (with the 24" wide chicken wire
) stretch the roll over the frame to the other side, but don't cut it yet. You want to keep the sides of the chicken wire screen in the middle of your 40" pieces of wood, and stretch them into a straight line. Once you start doing it, you will understand what I mean. You don't want any kinks along the 40" sides. The last part is the last short side. You will want to match the twisted wire on either sides (they should be equal) with the twisted wire parts that separates each cell. This will take a little bit of tugging, but then you get a nice, tight, bouncy, and even screen. Again attach the screen with staples over the twisty part that separates the cells. Use some wire snips to cut of the rest of the screen and do the same thing with the second frame. If you kept the sides nice and straight, you should have about 4" of chicken wire left for the trash can.
These are both of them finished and set on top of each other:
Putting the first screen inside the grow area - not easy to manipulate!
Putting the plants back, and gently putting some of the tops through the screen:
I don't know if I leave the second screen on top. I mainly build it to have a second drying screen, and just because I had material left over
It might be fun to see if it is helpful at all to keep the enormous colas straight that I plan to grow
If you have the tools, this is about a 45 minute project otherwise about double that?
- 1 roll (24"x10') Chicken wire (2" holes) from Lowes: $3.79
- 5 pieces of 1"x2"x96" fir @ $0.89: $4.45
Total: $8.24
Other things that I used, but didn't have to pay for are:
- Little bit of wood glue
- Some brads for my finish nailer (you could use nails or screws, but then you will have to pre-drill)
- Some staples
Cut four of the 96" piece of wood in three pieces: 42", 30" and 24" (no waste). The last one, I cut four pieces of 12", but you can cut them any length that you want. The 12" pieces are the legs of the top screen, so it depends on how high you want them.
Now create a rectangular frame of 42" x 32" (shorter pieces inside the longer pieces). Put some glue on the touching sides, then put in some brads (or screws/nails).
Frame one complete:
Frame two can loosely stand on top of frame two:
Now it is time for the chicken wire. Roll the chicken wire over a flat surface, and stretch it a little wider then the current 24", not too much, just give it a tug.
Place it on top of the screen. You will want to staple it first along the 32" side of the wooden frame (24" stretched part of the screen). Place the staple over the twisted piece of the wire, then after you cut it later, you can fold it over:
After you attach the 32" side (with the 24" wide chicken wire
) stretch the roll over the frame to the other side, but don't cut it yet. You want to keep the sides of the chicken wire screen in the middle of your 40" pieces of wood, and stretch them into a straight line. Once you start doing it, you will understand what I mean. You don't want any kinks along the 40" sides. The last part is the last short side. You will want to match the twisted wire on either sides (they should be equal) with the twisted wire parts that separates each cell. This will take a little bit of tugging, but then you get a nice, tight, bouncy, and even screen. Again attach the screen with staples over the twisty part that separates the cells. Use some wire snips to cut of the rest of the screen and do the same thing with the second frame. If you kept the sides nice and straight, you should have about 4" of chicken wire left for the trash can.These are both of them finished and set on top of each other:
Putting the first screen inside the grow area - not easy to manipulate!
Putting the plants back, and gently putting some of the tops through the screen:
I don't know if I leave the second screen on top. I mainly build it to have a second drying screen, and just because I had material left over
It might be fun to see if it is helpful at all to keep the enormous colas straight that I plan to grow
If you have the tools, this is about a 45 minute project otherwise about double that?
