Serious Seeds Chronic Grow

4twenty4all

4twenty4all

New Member
Hey All, This is my 2nd grow... first grow is in week 6 of flowering.

I started with 5 seeds and 4 sprouted, think I planted the one that didn't sprout upside down as when I was removing the seed the tap root was just below the soil surface.

I made a box 2 1/2 feet x 3 feet long x 4 feet tall, mainly to be a mother box with CFLs. The 4 plants are in there on 24 hour light and are at day 7 from the start of germination.

Soil: Equal parts all Fox Farm: Ocean Forest, Original Planting Mix, Light Warrior Agro-Ponic

Light: (Until my other plant is finished flowering) 4 100W General Use CFLs

Humidity: In dome 70% and just in the box is about 55-60%

Temp: 80 - 85 F
 
Here ya go man, lookin good, clean steup. :allgood:

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DankBuds :rasta:
 
Thanks Boss and Dank! After I get my 3 strains going I'm going to use that box to support the 3 different mothers. Also, I just started germinating 4 haze seeds and am going stick them under 12/12 400W MH as soon as they sprout to test the 12/12 theory from seed. I'll take pics regularly for that grow and start a new journal.
 
Yep, I'm not sure how long I will leave them on mh, I may just do 5 weeks mh then switch to hps until they are done.

I'm testing adding a picture with the link you sent me Boss, hope I get it right!

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Thanks, I hope this is a great grow! My haze seeds I was going to put to 12/12 from seed did not germinate. I guess the seeds were bad, I've contacted the seed company as all of the chronic seeds germinated without a problem.

Originally I wanted to try the white russian from serious but they were out of stock when i ordered. Is the smell as strong as they say during the grow? Because I have a kush that is finishing up now and stinks like all hell :-) I can't imagine anything having much more of an intense smell.

Any thoughts on this.... My seedlings are 3 weeks old now and this past Wednesday I decided to spray them with about a 1/4 solution of Organic seaweed (liquid kelp), no fish additives, and a couple of the leaves have small light brown circles on them. I am guessing that it is a burn, I'll upload pictures shortly and post. I guess I really don't need to foliar feed them until they are fully in veg stage?
 
Check your PH. I could be wrong, but this is what it looks like.

Problems with Calcium being locked out by PH troubles

Very acidic soils with excessive potassium, dry and or wet soil. Lack of calcium in the soil may cause too acidic soil. This may cause to Mg or Iron deficiency or very slow stunted growth

Soil

Calcium gets locked out of soil growing at ph levels of 2.0- 6.4
Calcium is absorbed best in soil at a ph level of 6.5-9.1 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph of over 7.0 in soil) anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a
Calcium Deficiency.

Hydro and Soil less Mediums

Calcium gets locked out of Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 2.0- 5.3
Calcium is absorbed best in Hydro and Soil less Mediums at ph levels of 5.4-5.8 (Wouldn’t recommend having a ph over 6.5 in hydro and soil less mediums.) Best range for hydro and soil less mediums is 5.0 to 6.0. Anything out of the ranges listed will contribute to a Calcium Deficiency.

Solution to fixing a Calcium deficiency
To fix a calcium deficiency you can treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomite lime or Garden lime per quart of water, Or Any Chemical/Organic nutrients that have Calcium in them will fix a Calcium deficiency. (Only mixing at ½ strength when using chemical nutrients or it will cause nutrient burn!)
Or you can take crushed up dolomite lime or garden lime in a gallon of water and water it in the soil. 1 to 2 teaspoons per gallon of water, which will be slow acting. Garden Gypsum, which is medium absorption. Limestone, which is medium absorption, Rock Phosphate and Animal wastes which are both medium/slow absorption. Note: Caution when using gypsum to an already acid soil (pH that is less than 5.5) can have a very bad effect on different types of plants by effecting the absorption of soil aluminum, which is poison to plant roots.

Now if you added to much chemical nutrients and or organics, (which is hard to burn your plants when using organics) you need to flush the soil with plain water. You need to use 2 times as much water as the size of the pot, for example: If you have a 5 gallon pot and need to flush it, you need to use 10 gallons of water to rinse out the soil good enough to get rid of excessive nutrients.

Pictures 1-2 shows calcium deficiencies. First one shows late, 2nd one shows early development.


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Hey Boss and Berry thanks for the suggestions. I tested my soil which is 6.8 - 6.9 ph. However, I have been adjusting the water I use to water and spray them with so I tested the water and found that I may have miscalculated as my water was at 4.5 ph. I try to keep my water at 5.5 - 6.0. Do you think I can continue to use water with a ph between 5.5 - 6.0? I make small batches of water so I am pretty sure that I have only been watering with 4.5 ph water for about a week.
 
I am watering every day at this point but verified that the containers are dry by the next morning. I using the wet/dry watering cycle and am sure that after I transplant to larger pots that, like with my current grow almost finished, I will be watering approx every 2 - 3 days or so. I am using a large wooden match stick to test for wetness and going by feeling the weight of the plant when it is dry and just after watering.

Also, today I decided to switch out 2 of the 100W equivalent soft-white bulbs for 2 100W daylight bulbs. So now I have 2 100W soft-white and 2 100W daylight bulbs. I figure I'll see how the mix of light affects the plants.

I have 4 new strains coming that I can't wait to start either.
Arjan's Haze #3
White Widow
Bubble Gum
Columbian Red Haze

:smoke2:
 
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